These deeply savory burgers are inspired by a recipe by Ignacio Mattos, chef of Estela in New York and author of a book by the same name. Mattos uses fish sauce as a seasoning for steak, but we opted for similarly salty and umami-rich Worcestershire sauce. We blend it with rosemary and garlic to create our basting mixture. These seasonings, combined with a simple Taleggio cheese sauce, make these burgers richer, more elegant, and far more flavorful than your average cheeseburger. We recommend brioche buns or Kaiser rolls, which hold up better than standard hamburger buns. As for toppings, we like to keep it simple: sliced tomato or pickled red onions to balance the burgers’ richness.
Don’t put the cheese sauce directly onto the cooked patties, because it will slide off. A better approach is to spoon the sauce onto the cut sides of each bun and allow the bread to absorb it.
- ½ cup heavy cream
- 8 ounces Taleggio cheese, rind removed, cut into ½-inch chunks
- ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
- 4 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
- 2½ tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced
- 1½ pounds 85 percent lean ground beef
- Kosher salt and ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil
- Taleggio cheese sauce (directions below)
- 4 buns, split and toasted
In a small saucepan over medium, heat the cream until just simmering. Stir in the cheese, cover, and remove from the heat. Let stand until the cheese is softened and partially melted, about 20 minutes, quickly stirring once halfway through. Set aside.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the Worcestershire sauce, garlic, and rosemary. In a medium bowl, combine the beef with 1 tablespoon of the Worcestershire mixture and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then mix gently until the seasonings are evenly incorporated. Divide the meat into 4 portions and shape each into a patty about 4½ inches in diameter and about ½-inch thick.
In a 12-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until lightly smoking. Add the patties and cook for 3 minutes, spooning 1 teaspoon of the Worcestershire mixture over each. Using a wide metal spatula, flip the patties and continue to cook for another 3 minutes, again spooning 1 teaspoon of the sauce onto each. Continue to flip and cook, brushing with the remaining sauce mixture, until the patties are well browned on both sides and the centers reach 125 degrees for medium-rare or 130 degrees for medium, another 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes.
While the burgers rest, set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl. Stir the cream and cheese mixture thoroughly, then pour it into the strainer and force through with a silicone spatula; the sauce should be smooth and creamy after straining. Stir in ¼ teaspoon pepper.
Spoon about 1 tablespoon of cheese sauce onto the cut sides of both halves of each bun. Set each burger on a bun and serve with the remaining cheese sauce on the side.