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Jacques Pépin on a French classic: “Pâtes de fruits, or fruit jellies, are very popular around the holidays—and usually expensive.”

• Two 12-ounce bags frozen raspberries, thawed (4 cups)
• 1 1/4 cups seedless raspberry jam
• 1 cup sugar, plus more for coating
• 3 envelopes unflavored powdered gelatin (2 tablespoons)
• 3/4 cup cold water

1. In a food processor, puree the thawed raspberries with the raspberry jam and the 1 cup of sugar. Strain the puree into a medium saucepan. Boil the puree over moderately high heat, stirring often, until reduced to 3 cups, about 10 minutes.

• 15 oz can apricots in syrup
• 12 dried apricot halves
• 1 1/4 cups apricot preserves
• 1/2 cup sugar, plus more for coating
• 2 envelopes unflavored powdered gelatin (4.5 tsp)
• 1/3 cup cold water

1. Strain the apricot syrup from the can into a saucepan; reserve the apricots. Boil the dried apricots in the syrup. Reduce heat and simmer until tender and most of the liquid has evaporated – 7 minutes or so.
2. Put the saucepan contents in a food processor. Add reserved canned apricots, the apricot preserves and the sugar. Process until smooth. Boil over moderately high heat until thick, about 8 minutes.

1. Lightly oil an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Line the dish with a piece of wax paper that extends 4 inches beyond the rim.
2. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in an even layer. Let stand until the gelatin softens, then heat the water in a microwave for 20 seconds, until the gel­atin dissolves completely. Stir the melted gelatin into the fruit puree, then pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Let cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
3. Just before serving, unmold the pâte de fruit onto a work surface. Peel off and discard the wax paper. Using a sharp knife, cut the pâte into 1-inch squares or triangles. Spread about 1/2 cup of sugar in a shallow bowl. Roll the pieces in the sugar to coat. Arrange on a platter and serve.

The pâte de fruit can be prepared through puree and refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 week. Dab with paper towels before proceeding.

Food and Wine December 2007 FW